CRAFTED COUTURE

The lines between couture and ready-to-wear collections are becoming more blurred as designers try to differentiate themselves with impeccable craftsmanship, couture materials and intricate details. Leading the charge is Raf Simons at Dior, who blends old and new techniques in modern creations such as his floral silk dresses with pleats bursting from the shoulder or hips. At Valentino, Roman-inspired evening gowns and capes were decorated with couture-level embroideries and beading.

At Tod's, newly appointed designer Alessandra Facchinetti translated the brand's understated luxury into everyday couture, ranging from preforated leather skirts to super-light and soft leather dresses. Proenza Schouler designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough took a leaf out of couturier Mariano Fortuny's book and experimented with pleated skirts, but made them all the more modern by bonding them with strips of foil.

Another couture favourite, lace, was transformed into modern negligee-style dresses with sheer layers at Stella McCartney, while Oscar de la Renta and Nina Ricci went for a more romantic look with all white. Burberry Prorsum's lace trench coat and skirt came encrusted with chunky jewels.

Dolce & Gabbana

At Dolce & Gabbana, handcrafted details and exceptional fabrics added a luxe touch to their gilded dresses, which came in opulent lace or laser-cut leather. Even spring's ubiquitous florals were given a new dimension through intricate appliqués and sequins, as spotted on dresses at Versace.

Hand in hand with museum-worthy pieces is an ultra-feminine palette including powder pink, which was championed at brands like Balmain.

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